A road that unveils a wonderland in Southwest China

By Yuan Yuan

Among the celebrated scenic spots in southwest Yunnan Province, Nujiang Lisu Autonomous Prefecture is not on the frequently mentioned list. In the past, a lack of transportation infrastructure used to prevent many tourists from catching a glimpse of the region’s breathtaking vistas, so they were known only to niche travelers.
With over 98 percent of the land being covered with undulating mountains, valleys and rivers, transportation infrastructure has long been on the region’s development agenda but such projects have been hard to implement on the ground. Cliffs, frequent falling rocks and landslides have made road construction there a life-and-death endeavor. Several simple roads built over the past decades have been of poor quality and in constant need of repair.
Under these conditions, a road stretching 300 km linking Lushui, the seat of the prefecture and two other counties, Fugong and Gongshan, in the prefecture, has received intense attention since its construction began in August 2017. It is a dual-lane road winding along the Nujiang River, the main river in the prefecture. The picturesque views along its path have led to it being dubbed the Beautiful Road. On December 30, 2019, vehicles began using the road to travel between the previously remote regions. The road has shortened the travel time from Lushui to Gongshan from over 10 hours to less than five.
New home along the way: The construction of the road was concurrent with a large population relocation project in the prefecture. Listed as one of the six regions in China most severely impacted by poverty, the local government in Nujiang has prioritized relocating people from remote mountainous areas into urban areas where they can have better access to education, medical services and economic opportunity. At the time the road construction started, approximately half of Nujiang’s rural poor—100,000—needed to be relocated.
Yu Dong, a 26-year-old man living in Weilaba Community, a new community around the starting point of the road in Lushui, moved to his new home in August 2019. At that time, the road was still under construction.
His family used to live in a village over 10 km away. “The old house was a stilt house built on a hillside. It leaked during the rainy season and was very cold in winter,” Yu told Beijing Review. There are four people in Yu’s family. Based on the allocation standard of 20 square meters per person, the family was given an apartment of 80 square meters.
Upon hearing his family would be moving into one of the new apartments, Yu began to look forward to the completion of the new community. He witnessed firsthand how difficult the entire process was. “It was common to see large trucks carrying construction materials running along the bumpy road, which was often blocked due to roadworks,” Yu said.
Xia Youhui, who is in charge of the relocation project in Nujiang described the construction as “the hardest task ever.” “It was very chaotic and it was common for the trucks carrying construction equipment and supplies to get stuck in the middle of nowhere along their journeys,” Xia said.
The distance from Lushui to Fugong County is only about 130 km, but the trip usually took 10 hours due to bad road conditions and sometimes the drivers were stranded overnight along the way. Before beginning a journey, the drivers had to ensure they had prepared enough food to last for days in case they got stuck.
Even under such circumstances, the construction of both houses and road proceeded gradually and steadily. Now, the new apartment buildings in relocated sites, all painted yellow, have become part of the sceneries dotted along the Beautiful Road. Each site not only has residential buildings, but also a kindergarten and primary school. Some also have factories where relocated residents can find work and earn money.
“The kindergarten is just at the gate of the community and right next to the factory,” said a 36-year-old woman surnamed Feng, who lives in a relocated community in Fugong. The woman works in the clothing factory during the day and picks up her daughter from kindergarten after work. “It is very convenient. In the very beginning my mother refused to leave her old house in the mountains. Now she also works in this factory and has learned to use a sewing machine.”
The local government has been committed to ensuring that the construction of the new road and the new residential areas will not damage the natural beauty of the region. Now, it is evident that the infrastructure projects have achieved a sound balance between development and environment. The Xiaoshaba Service Area, set up at the starting point of the road, is now hailed as “the most beautiful road service area in China.” It has an open garden, a bicycle rental service, and a garden hotel.
Feast for eyes: A green lane for bicycle riders is still under construction, which will run along the full length of the Beautiful Road. The other terminal of the road, in addition to the one in Fugong, is Bingzhongluo Township, which is hailed by travelers as “a place in heaven” in Gongshan County.
Quite a few tranquil villages scatter across the area with the roaring Nujiang River running among the surrounding steep cliffs and deep valleys. Many residents here have been running bed and breakfasts and homestays for years.
Ma Jinhua, a local woman in Qiunatong Village of Bingzhongluo, was the first person in the village to open a bed and breakfast in 2011. The guesthouses are fully booked in advance, and on weekends she is very busy and needs to employ other villagers to help. When she is not busy, she enjoys sitting in the courtyard, and weaving Nu ethnicity traditional carpets.
–The Daily Mail-Beijing Review News Exchange Item