In Fujian Province, traditional stone houses offer insights into urban evolution and regional culture. Built with local materials, they are also customized to suit the local natural environment and geographical conditions. For this reason, their layout is free and flexible, culminating in a unique architectural style.
Among all the stone houses in Fujian, one that particularly stands out is located in Shamei Village of Xiang’an District in Xiamen. Once deserted, it has been converted into a restaurant called Yellow Stone House by Felix Kraemer, a German graphic designer—who is also the chef.
The renovated Yellow Stone House reflects the ingenuity and industry of its remodeler: patterned floor tiles collected from South Asia, trinkets brought from Europe, a decorative painting made of an old carved wood headboard, a soft metallic partition… Kraemer made bold attempts to reach a proper balance between preserving tradition and pursuing innovation. Through his thoughtful and careful arrangement, these contrasting elements blend together in a harmony, creating a space that is retro, stylish and warm.
Identity change
The process of converting a stone house into a restaurant presented countless difficulties; however, Kraemer is inclined to embrace such challenges. For him, new problems also present new learning opportunities.
The identities of designer and chef may appear at odds, yet Kraemer perceives the two professions as intrinsically related. “As a graphic designer, I usually work on a computer, and the work content is normally flat. But I think both graphic design and culinary arts are an exercise in creativity,” he explained. For Kraemer, the form of the work is not important; it is the creative process that he values.
When he first arrived in Xiamen, he had a job related to his major: teaching graphic design at Xiamen University. Later, he was inspired by a friend’s stereotype of Germans: All Germans can brew beer. The moment he heard this, he figured, why not give it a try? So, with no knowledge whatsoever about brewing beer, he started learning about it using the means available to him and eventually opened a bar with the money he had made from his design work.
Later, after becoming tired of the bar atmosphere, he was attracted by the quiet milieu and distinctive traditional Minnan (southern Fujian) buildings in Shamei, and decided to open a restaurant to pursue the chill, idyllic life he longed for. “It’s not far from downtown Xiamen, but much more peaceful. Looking at the night sky here, it feels like the stars are close enough to reach,” he said.
A Western restaurant in a tiny village? Are there any customers? Can the business survive? These are the questions people commonly ask after hearing about Yellow Stone House. “In fact, I think life here is half urban, half rural. In recent years, many modern buildings have been built here, and a campus of Xiamen University is nearby. So, business has proven to be surprisingly robust,” Kraemer told Beijing Review.
From simple sandwiches and salads to hot dishes, from traditional German food to fusion cuisine, from the basic menu to seasonal specials, Kraemer is always trying, always learning. He learned from books, from online tutorials and even from international students from different countries who visited the restaurant.
“Over time, an increasing number of guests have arrived, and many regular customers have become our friends. I hope this space will serve as a ‘home away from home’ for all guests, and this idea is becoming a reality,” Kraemer said.
Now, Yellow Stone House has evolved into a popular gathering spot for international students at Xiamen University, not only due to its hearty cuisine but also owing to the warm and welcoming demeanor of its owner.
“We also rent an acre of land near the restaurant to grow our own vegetables, spices and flowers, so that we can achieve the ‘from farm to table’ concept that I always advocate. Because I see my cuisine as my product, I want this product to be fresh and organic. Plus, I hope my child can learn where food comes from and how it is grown,” he elaborated. “I can also invite my friends to the small garden for dinner and beer. This kind of life is almost impossible in urban areas,” he added.
Kraemer serves a pizza to guests at Yellow Stone House on June 23, 2023.
Life on the go
According to Kraemer, his habit of constantly embracing changes and challenges in life was formed in childhood.
“My parents moved around quite often when I was a kid. The year I turned 10, the Berlin Wall came down, which meant that I, who had lived in East Germany, had to adjust quickly to the West German system. When I grew up, I went to another country, namely the Netherlands, to study, which also required me to adapt to the local environment. So, I seem to be so used to dealing with new challenges and new situations,” he said, adding that an uncertain life is the source of his creativity. “Even in the face of financial difficulties, I don’t panic. Instead, I am more innovative and motivated to maintain a certain standard of living.”
Having lived in different countries and experienced different careers, Kraemer has now settled down in Xiamen. Apart from the fact that this city, like his birthplace of Greifswald and longtime home of Amsterdam in the Netherlands, is near the sea, he feels that life in China is full of possibilities. “Here I have the freedom to step into different industries and try to implement all the ideas in my head,” Kraemer said. “Besides, China’s market is huge and its industries are rich. This is very favorable for us designers: If I have a blueprint or even merely a concept, I can directly find a factory to produce what I have in my mind. For instance, I designed a lot of Yellow Stone House branded products, like T-shirts, canvas bags, stickers, and even my own paddle board, which can all be customized at certain factories, even if the amount I need is not large. I feel that there are many more things worth exploring in this land,” he concluded. –The Daily Mail-Beijing Review news exchange item
